First Jhumkas, Then Bandhani, Now Zardozi: Why Ralph Lauren Is Under Fire By Indians
· Free Press Journal
First jhumkas, then Bandhani and now zardozi. Ralph Lauren has done it again. The American luxury label has found itself at the centre of another Indian craft debate, this time over a deep-pink evening gown from its Spring 2027 collection. The issue is not simply about a glamorous gown or intricate embroidery. It is about what happens when a centuries-old craft travels from artisan communities to a global luxury runway, and the name of that craft disappears somewhere along the way.
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Ralph Lauren under fire for 'zardozi'
Ralph Lauren recently unveiled its Spring 2027 collection at the New York Fashion Week, with the runway bringing together romantic gowns, sharp tailoring and elaborate surface detailing. Among the looks was a deep-pink evening gown featuring intricate metallic embroidery and embellishment.
The conversation began after the brand posted images of the gown and a close-up of its embroidery on Instagram on September 12. Rather than identifying the technique or its Indian connection, Ralph Lauren's caption described the look as being made from "shimmering silk-viscose" and "hand-applied embellishments", calling it a "cinematic statement."
Indian Designer Sabyasachi Returns To New York Fashion Week After Nearly 18 Years, Supermodel Christy Turlington Opens Show In Denim And Gold JewelsThat description quickly caught attention online because the embroidery was being compared to zardozi, a richly embellished form of embroidery with Persian roots that became deeply established in India, particularly during the Mughal era. While the Ralph Lauren post does not call the work zardozi, critics argue that the visual resemblance makes the absence of any acknowledgement of Indian craftsmanship difficult to overlook.
Indians didn't hold back
Fashion designer Prakhar Rao Singh Chandel was among those to publicly question the brand's description. In an Instagram post, he pointed out that zardozi has been registered in Lucknow and six surrounding districts since 2013, with one lakh seventy-five thousand artisans working in the cluster.
For him, the problem lies in how much attention the Ralph Lauren post gives to the fabric and the finished garment, while the actual handwork is reduced to the generic word “embellishments”.
He also drew attention to the final slide of the post, which quotes Ralph Lauren speaking about wanting every piece to carry its own history and character. Prakhar's response was pointed: “Whose history? Whose character?”
His larger argument is about naming the craft when it is used, rather than recognising its origins only after social media criticism begins.
Indians Slam Luxury Brand Ralph Lauren For 'Copying' & Selling Bandhini-Inspired Skirt For ₹44,800 Without CreditsThe comment section of Ralph Lauren's post quickly turned into another conversation altogether, with Indian users asking the brand to acknowledge the craft behind the look. “This is Indian,” several users pointed out. Another comment read, “Start acknowledging Indian art.” “Very pretty but this is Indian craftsmanship,” another user wrote.
Others took a broader view of the situation, with one comment saying, “High fashion is becoming more and more Indian every time.” Another user questioned the repeated borrowing of Indian aesthetics, writing, “We don't need cultural appropriation. Its Indian, call it what it is!”
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Ralph Lauren's earlier craft debates
If the latest zardozi debate feels familiar, that is because it is.
Earlier this year, Ralph Lauren faced criticism after accessories resembling traditional Indian jhumka earrings appeared during a presentation at Paris Fashion Week. The brand's descriptions referred to them as “vintage accessories” and mentioned vintage pieces and selected accessories, but did not identify them as Indian jhumkas. The omission sparked a debate online about the way Indian cultural accessories are described by international fashion houses.
Then came Bandhani.
Ralph Lauren was again criticised over a cotton wrap skirt listed on its website as a design inspired by traditional Bandhani tie-dye techniques and motifs. The skirt was priced at ₹44,800. While the product description did mention Bandhani, critics questioned the absence of a clearer acknowledgement of its Indian roots and artisan heritage. The fact that the garment was a printed interpretation rather than traditional hand-tied Bandhani also became part of the online discussion.
Prada Launches 'Made In India' Kolhapuri-Inspired Sandals After Troll: 'This Is Literally The OG Chappal', Say NetizensAnd now, the conversation has returned to embroidery. With several desi elements becoming part of the same conversation around Ralph Lauren, Indian fashion watchers are clearly asking for one simple thing: if the craft is being used, name it.